Plants
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In this document;
Introduction >
How Plants Work >
Siting & Design >
Soil >
Compost >
Propagating >
Planting >
Companion Plants >
Rotating Plants >
Maintenance >
Mulching >
Watering >
Fertilising >
Pruning >
Pests & Disease >
Harvesting >
Seed Saving >
Using >
Varieties >
References
Links to other documents on this site;
Class Process >
Companion & Rotating Plant table >
Dictionary >
Flowers >
Grass >
Herbs >
HotHouse >
Hydroponics >
Planting table >
Trees & Shrubs >
Vegetables >
Vines
Plants according to the Collins English Dictionary are "any living organism that typically synthesizes it's food from inorganic substances, possesses cellulose cell walls, responds slowly and often permanently to a stimulus, lacks specialized sense organs and a nervous system, and has no powers of locomotion."
I have grouped Plants on this website by Vegetables, Herbs, Flowers, Grass, Vines and Trees/Shrubs.
Plants in my opinion, must be useful.
They are typically made useful in your garden.
To be useful, plants must contribute to achieving your objectives.
Therefore you must have some objectives, reasonable objectives, although that will not always be possible to know when you are just starting.
Don't be afraid to change your objectives as your knowledge and experience grows.
My current objectives with my plants are to (not in any order);
After setting your objectives you must then form a plan on how to achieve them.
Not just a physical layout plan.
As important, is a plan for your process. How you intend to go about achieving your objectives.
None of this has to be written down. That is your own personal choice. There is no right or wrong way.
But you must spend time thinking about your objectives, your plans, your knowledge and your daily experiences.
Your daily experiences will come from being in your garden and observing.
Your knowledge will come from your research and reading.
Don't be afraid to experiment.
Don't be afraid to change your plans when they need to be.
And remember that if you change your objectives, you must then revisit your plans to ensure they are still relevant.
By being useful I mean plants should maintain or improve our health and lifestyle.
Either directly or indirectly.
Directly would be by eating them or using them as medicine.
Indirectly could be through feeding them to your animals which may in turn be eaten, improving your mental health through the relaxation of gardening and for me, improving my mental health by keeping my costs down, which removes the pressure of having to earn more money in a job or business that causes me stress.
The uses for a plant include the following (if a plant can have more than one use then even better);
I look at the overwhelming majority of gardens and garden areas and think what a waste of opportunity.
Aesthetically beautiful gardens that once I would have fawned over, I now turn up my nose at their uselessness.
Having a use of beauty only, is insufficient to be regarded as useful, in my opinion.
Growing plants to be useful is not easy or simple.
This is unfortunate in that it prevents many people from ever trying and worse, causes many who do try to give up.
However the flip side is that your garden of plants is a fascinating and endless challenge, which can never be boring and where you can choose how far you do or do not want to take it.
Besides knowledge and experience, the creation and maintenance of your garden will require your time, persistence through adversity and an approach of continuous improvement.
You must spend quality time almost every day in your garden understanding what is happening and what needs to happen.
It is vital to establish the facts, separated from the volumes of fiction.
It is science, but science does not have to be too complicated and it does not have to be boring.
So much of the knowledge and experience needed for a useful garden of plants has gone from our consumer based society, full of experts with only narrow fields of experience.
This could even be a capitalist big business conspiracy to make us totally dependent on their products.
Or it could be just evolution, in which case I am inevitably trying to move against the tide.
However the knowledge does exist, but I have found it very hard to put your hands on just what you want, when you need it.
Hopefully this website will make that easier for you than it was for me.
My intention is not to turn you off plants and gardening.
There is an initial hump to get over and once you have established your process and are in control of your garden environment, it does get easier and rewarding.
When you make less mistakes the first time and are able to prevent many problems before they occur, this reduction of "waste" is what I find makes it more pleasurable for me.
I need to be in control of my garden to feel pleasure with it.
This does not mean forcing it to do what it should not. But it does mean guiding your garden along the path to achieving your reasonable objectives.
Evolution I prefer to think of it as. How could you get more natural than that?
So start small, set your objectives, plan how to achieve it, try and spend time in your garden every day and continually learn from your research and experience.
Happy gardening!
Plants are made up of Roots, Stems, Leaves and Flowers.
These are in turn made up of Cells that contain the fluid Protoplasm.
Protoplasm is made up of Minerals, Sugars, Proteins and Fats.
Roots fix the plant to the soil and absorb water and minerals into the plant.
A plant has either tap or spreader root systems.
Roots have fine hairs and these are Semi Permeable, allowing water to be absorbed by Osmosis. Water and minerals will be absorbed into the plant if the concentration is greater outside than in.
Plasmolyis is when the soil drys out to less water than in the plant, causing it to wilt.
If insufficient nutrients are available within the plant, it then needs to take in water which is triggered by transpiration.
Soil is a Mixture and has Organic and Inorganic components.
The organic components (5%) comprise plant remains and animal residues, being broken down by fungi and bacteria, and giving soil it's dark nature. This mixture increases the water holding capacity, assists fixing the inorganic plant nutrients and provides nitrogen.
The inorganic components (45%) are gravel (2mm diameter), sand, clay (.002mm diameter) and decomposed minerals.
This soil mixture also has Water (25%) and Air (25%) present. Nutrients and minerals are partially or wholely dissolved in water for the roots to absorb. Oxygen in the air is also necessary for root respiration.
Stems are the simplest part of the plant and connect the roots with the leaves and transport water with nutrients and minerals to the leaves. This is the plant Vascular System. (and air too?)
Leaves breathe through Stomata, which are Pores usually on the undersides of the leaves.
Transpiration occurs through the stomata, with Water Vapour released allowing the plant to cool on a hot day. This causes more water to be drawn up through the root system. Carbon Dioxide and Oxygen diffuse into the plant through the stomata. If a plant requires more carbon dioxide then the stomata must stay open longer and the plants lose more water – depending on the time of day.
Leaves Photosynthesise, using the carbon dioxide (0.003%) from the air, in the presence of Sunlight and Chlorophyll (green), to combine with water to form simple sugars (Glucose). These sugars are used by the plant for energy and in the creation of more complex Fats, Starches and Proteins.
Respiration takes place continuously, with the oxygen being consumed in the breakdown of sugars (Oxidation) with carbon dioxide and water vapour being produced.
Flowers are the Sexual Reproductive Part of the plant. There are male and female components. The male and female parts are usually in the same flower, although they can be separate flowers on the same plant or even separate plants.
The Stigma is the female receptive organ and is usually situated on the Style which is a long tube. The Corolla are the petals and usually in the middle of these is the Ovary.
The Stamen is the male organ and from the Anther releases Pollen which then attaches to the stigma and then the ovary is fertilised.
Depending on the plant the ovary will then swell to become the fruit with it's seed.
Plants can also produce Asexually through propogation from cuttings.
There are 6 major mineral elements;
Nitrogen. Essential component of proteins and found in chlorophyll and protoplasm. An excess produces lush soft growth. A deficiency causes short stems and yellowing of plant.
Phosphorus. Essential for all living cells. Found in abundance in seeds and fruits. A deficiency causes thick small cells.
Potassium. Remains in an inorganic water soluble form. Essential for promoting strong growth and is found in areas of high physiological activity such as developing fruits and leaves.
Calcium. An adundant cell wall building element and neutralises organic acids.
Magnesium. Found in small amounts and involved in formation of chlorophyll.
Sulphur. Widely distributed through plant in small amounts. Organic forms of sulphur are found in certain proteins and essential oils.
???- Correct Nitrogen to Carbon balance
???- 10 major elements - Carbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium and Sulphur
There are 6 required trace elements (although others can be found in plants);
Iron. Catalytic agent primarily and also in chlorophyll synthesis.
Manganese. Catalytic agent for various physiological functions.
Boron. Catalytic agent for various physiological functions.
Zinc. Catalytic agent for various physiological functions.
Copper. Catalytic agent for various physiological functions.
Molybdenum. Catalytic agent for various physiological functions.
Berries are under-story plants - so they prefer to be under trees in shade.
Fruit – gentle slopes - not exposed to strong winds.
Nuts are warmth loving?
Fruit trees do best in medium to heavy loose soils.
Southern slopes best for warmth loving trees - almonds, peaches, apricots, nuts.
Alternate deciduous and evergreen – evergreen is ripening when deciduous has lost it's leaves.
While it may appear to overstate the obvious - soil is "the top layer of the land surface of the earth that is composed of disintegrated rock particles, humus, water and air."
Soil is the critical medium in which all plants grow - for optimum growth we need ideal soil.
Extremes are clay and sandy - plants usually require soil to be in between - it needs to hold water yet drain well - water needs to flow down and up through the soil (capillary flow).
Clay soil can use 75mm coarse sand forked into top 200mm of clay - for sandy soils and to fertilise all soils we will use compost.
Soil Ph is important for vegetables, herbs & flowers - pH 5.0 is Acid - 8.0 is Alkaline - 7.0 is neutral - 6.5 is usually ideal – from 6.0 to 7.5 is good - use Lime (Calcium Carbonate) to make an acid soil alkaline - can also use Dolomite (Lime and Magnesium Carbonate) - 1 bucket per 30m2 – you cannot make soil too alkaline and this cannot damage the soil - buy a simple pH test kit to determine your soil pH.
Soil contains;
- Nitrogen - to increase use blood & bone say 1 handful to 1m2
- Calcium Carbonate - to increase use Lime or Dolomite
- Magnesium Carbonate - to increase use Dolomite
- Earthworms - their castings (pooh) contain Phosphorus, Lime, Potash, Magnesium and Nitrogen
- Mycorhiza
- Micro-organic life
- Microscopic plant life
- Bla bla bla about how this needs to be that for optimum growth of plants.
Generally, leaf crops prefer more nitrogen and root crops prefer more phosphorous.
Compost is the optimum fertiliser for your soil/plants - it is as organic as what you put into it – and it can cost very little to prepare.
Making good compost requires the following;
- Moisture balance
- pH balance
- Anaerobic bacteria (function without air)
- Aerobic bacteria - and the oxygen level they require.
- Composts can be made fast or slow -
- Compost ingredients - from bottom to top – should be as follows;
Seed saving …
Cuttings
Almost all fruit trees will grow from seed – usually these will not be as hardy or prolific as grafted - but less expensive.
Seed raising mix. What you buy in the shop contains Horticultural Coir, Black Peat, Propogating Sand, Trace Elements, Mineral & Fertiliser Additives, Organic Materials, Composted Pine Bark, Living Microrganisms like Bacterial Fungi and Protozoa. Or just use your compost mixed with a little potting mix if necessary.
Seasons are related to where you are and what your local climate is - therefore we will not use seasons terminology – rather more general references.
Deciduous trees best planted in Autumn through to Spring.
Start planting now. To procrastinate is to not have food to eat and the opportunity to make more excuses to not start.
Trellising and staking. It is far better to do these proactively to do these proactively. First by planting plants
Carrots and onions repel each others enemies.
Does not apply to trees and vines - for obvious reasons.
Maintenance of your garden is what you must do after planting until you are ready to harvest.
It must be an almost daily thing.
Maintenance includes mulching, watering, fertilising, pruning and dealing with pests and disease.
It really means spending time in your garden, keeping it tidy, observing what is happening and keeping on top of things generally.
Staking and trellising are also important maintenance tasks
Is creating a protective layer for the soil to - retain moisture - reduce erosion - feed the soil as it breaks down.
You can use recycling centre mulch – straw - hay (beware of seeds) - grass clippings - sawdust - shredded newspaper – pine needles – leaves - basically anything organic - but it needs to be attractive – but it can get expensive.
They say mulch to a depth of 150mm – but it is expensive - put a layer of damp newspaper down first and you can reduce this to 50mm.
Do not bury mulch - upsets Carbon-Nitrogen ratio - see details in Compost.
No need to weed or prepare first - just lay your mulching materials straight on top.
If you mulch you may find you do not need to compost as well - but you will need to add the following while mulching to ensure the soil is …………..
Mulch annually.
Mulch with …
Mulch should be 15cm deep but I often skimp to half that when mulch is expensive to obtain.
Mulch must not be against tree trunk. It can cause collar rot. Allow 15cm free between trunk and mulch.
Mulch trees out to drip line usually.
Animal manure.
Liquid manure.
Seaweed – Seasol is available
If your plant needs feeding the older leaves will be lighter than the new leaves - the new leaves will be drawing nitrogen from the old - other signs are leaves and flowers dropping too soon.
Only feed plants when new growth is apparent – although you can still mulch.
Feed frequently in small amounts.
Feed with compost or poultry manure or blood and bone.
Sulphate of Potash - rich source of potassium. Encourages growth of fruit and flowers.
Pruning.
Sterilise implements before pruning and ideally between plants.
There is an art to pruning. You need to know some of the following facts. But you must then also be able to look at the tree and know what to do. Partly this means knowing the tree and your purpose (what a lot of ......).
Establish the main branches.
Some trees only fruit on last years wood or the year befores
.
Understand the types of buds. Branch or flower/fruiting.
Disinfect saw and/or snippers betwen trees so you don't transmit disease or pests.
Tree paint over big cuts.
Disinfect spray tree after pruning if required.
Weevils, Codling Moth, Other Nasties - tie sacking strips or corrugated cardboard around fruit trees in late summer then burn (I assume remove from tree first?
Nasties that crawl - put a very good old fashioned grease band around tree boles - most predators fly up.
Cucumber beetle and Mexican bean beetle - repelled by nasturtiums.
Slugs, aphids and mosquitoes - eaten by Toads.
Thrushes (blackbirds!!!) - eat snails.
White fly - mint smell keeps them from beans.
Aphids - consumed by lacewings and their larvae.
Slugs - eggs are eaten by centipedes.
Aphids - eaten by ladybirds.
Onion fly - strips of sand soaked in paraffin between rows - for carrot fly too.
Slugs - like beer in a saucer - or milk and water.
Club root in brassica - piece of rhubarb under seedling - or water with rhubarb water - the smell is said to deter clubroot.
Silverleaf and die-back - cut off all deadwood from stonefruit in early summer and burn it.
Chocolate spot in beans - use plenty of potash.
Blackfly - grow winter sown broad beans instead of spring.
Black fly - onions from sets? rather than seed.
Club root - get rid of all brassica weeds such as charlock and shepherds purse which can harbour it.
Weeds
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*** SORRY - THIS PAGE IS STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION ***
Date created 24 February 2003 - - - Last updated 25 January 2004
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