This is the step by step of the assembly of my hand axe, this is a small one handed axe that can be used as a backup weapon a second weapon in two weapon combo styles, or as I am intending to using it, as my primary weapon until such time as my sword is compleated.

Here is an example of the compleated axe:



The head on this axe is a bearded style, this is extra good for pulling shields and weapons out of the way in group combat situation making openings for your team mates, it will most likely also be helpful somehow in one on one combat I am just not 100% sure how just yet. The main thing is it looks really cool.

Here is a picture of the head by itself:



I obtained the head in a mostly finished state, it was structuarally finished however it was somewhat rusty and a few of the welds needed some additional attention to make them look pretty. It was cleaned in the same manner as the shield boss in the shiled article.

To give some idea of the condition it was in look at the following collection of axe heads, there are two heads for two handed axes in this picture, the small one is a hand axe head that is basically the same size as the one used in the rest of this article, in cuntruction and condidition it was simailar to the all steel coloured big axe head in the photo.



The large bearded axe head in this photo is going to be cleaned up and used for my "Big Axe TM" also known as a Two Handed Axe, one of these is something that every Guardsman should have, they were the real Varangian Guard's signature weapon. In terms of re-enactors they are pretty handy too, not only are they intimidating for when you want to look menacing, they are great for leaning on when you get tired at displays and events.

Back to the hand axe.

The hand axes that I have used before in training have had totally straight shafts, I found that this made it dificult to hang onto when hooking peoples weapons and lost my grip on a number of ocassions, this could lead to a dangerous situation and it is the major reason I went for the shape of shaft that I did with this axe.

The shaft on this axe is a major experiment in itslef, I live close by a large number of willow trees so thought I would use what is readily available, I found a branch that had recently broken off from the tree, it had began to dry slightly but no signs of rot had yet set in. I cut the usable part off and took it home.

Firstly I have learnt about using freshly harvested timber as opposed to store bough kiln dried stuff, and I will find out how willow will perform for this purpose. It may be too soft, but I'll just wait and see.

Frist all the bark was stripped off with a knife, and all the little sticky out bits where cut off, I did a basic shaping on the shaft with my rasp but discovered it was still too hard to really work with due to moisture content. I left it for about 6 months whilst working on other projects, and when I went back to it it was more co-operative and I finished the shaping with relative ease. The top of it was shaped so the the head would fit on fairly easily, but for the most part it is the shape sugested by the branch just thinned and refined a bit.



Next the head was attached, first the top section was given a sanding as once the head was on this wasn't going to be possable, but it was also going to be hidden, so it was a quick sand. A groove was cut down the middle of it with a saw and the had was slid on.

A hardwood wedge was then hammered into the slot, forcing it open and giving a good tite fit for the head.



After this the shaft was given a very good sand with progressivly finer grades of sandpaper until it was nice and smooth.



Once sanding was done I wipe the wood with some linseed oil and then rubbed a mixture of linseed oil and beeswax into the wood, it has a nice yellow colour now and the grain has been brought out.



While I am unsure as to how well the willow will hold up to he beating it will be recieving I have observed that with combat axes regardless of what they are made of get a lot of abuse on a certain area of the shaft below where the head attaches, to try and counter this I have added the leather. It was done by weaving two long thin strips that had been soaked in water to make them stretchy, as they dry they shrink back getting extra tight hoolding them in place.

Here are pictures of the leather soaking with a cat doing some quality control in the second picture.



And here is a picture of the finished axe:





Back to the Re-Enactment Page




Article last updated 23/05/2004