This project is a woman's doublet, based on the pattern in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion made from dark brown velvet and lined with golden/bronze silk.

Dress Diary:

I started out by enlarging the pattern from Janet Arnold's book, and cutting a toile out of scraps of white cotton to check the fit. The pattern fit moderately well, although it was very short, even considering it had a skirt attached. I later decided to remove the skirt altogether and so am quite glad that I decided to lengthen the pattern to the extent I did. I also added some leaway to the sides until I was happy with the fit. to the right you can see a photo of the toile over my elizabethan corset.

The doublet pieces were put together using a construction technique from the Tudor Costume Page. This techniqute basically means that you line and finish each piece individually by hand, and then whip stitch the pieces together, thus avoiding the bulking seams produced by thick fabrics and modern constructin techniqutes. It wasn't until I was halfway through the second piece of the doublet that I realised that this mean sewing the entire doublet by hand! However, what started as a fairly scary prospect was actually rather enjoyable and has taught me to enjoy the peace of handsewing. Some small parts of this (the lacing strips) have been sewn by machine, but all the major seams are by hand and this construction technique has worked incredibly well!

Update - 5th August

This diary is so dreadfylly behind that I thought I should update and tidy it properly. The doublet is currently stitched together, complete with lacing strips down the front edge and is waiting to have a collar applied - the shape of said collar is still open to debate, but hopefully that will happen soon. I have also developed serious shoulder-roll doubt and so have been putting this off :)

I decided to close the doublet with lacing strips hidden under the front edge. This mean setting lacing strips into the lining on either side of the front opening, which proved a challenge. However, all has workd out moderately well. The lacing strips are set apart so that they do not meet when the bodice is closed. They are probably slightly further apart than they need to be, which leaves quite a wide lacing area across the front, but does not seem to be creating any problems.

Whilst I handstitched the eyelets in my corset, I decided to use grommets in the doublet and cover them with cotton, seeing as they will not be seen while it is worn (and cos I'm lazy!)

And...what's this? Some photos? Surely not! to the right you can see photos of this project in various stages of design and construction. The only photos I have are from an early stage. Although it looks like the lacing is visible, it's not. You can only see it because the doublet is still open down the front. I'm going to make a whole lot o' little buttons and loops to close the front edge.

Update 21st August - Prawn Production

Well, that's what anyone else would think I'm up to. I've been mocking up patterns for the shoulder rolls and at the moment it look as though I'm manufacturing soft toy shrimp!

Voila - the shrimp!

The pattern is taken from the diagrams in Janet Arnold's PoF, and this mock up consists of a stuffed tube, cut in an almon shape, folded over and stitched, and a separate cover made of yellow cotton. The cover consists of seven segments which are stitched together to achive the shaping of the shoulder roll...and incidentally produce a rather prawn like quality.

I've also done a little work on embroidering the collar. I've not only been toying with two different collar designs, but also with descisions about decoration. For the moment I've decided to attempt the less ambitious collar, as it will be fairly easy to swap the collar at a later date if I decide I want to.

The collar I'm attempting is actually poached from one of the men's doublets in PoF and I' m embroidering it with gold couching in verticle stripes.