A gown based on the 1546 portrait of theyoung Princess Elizabeth

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Click here to visit the french hood page

 

Plan:

This dress was such an ambitious project, that I decided to start with a rough plan of what needed to be done, what materials would be required and how I would go about it. The gown is based on the style shown in the portrait of Elizabeth Tudor to the right. My intention is not to make an exact replica, but something inspired by the beautiful lines of this style.

Layers:

  • Shift
    Ideally a wide necked shift made of fine linen (or cotton?) , with blackwork embroidery around the neckline and cuffs.
    Problems: The upper sleeve of the Tudor gown is very tight, meaning that it is desirable to have as little cloth as possible squashed inside it. However, the lower part of the shift sleeve is meant to be full and voluminous to puff out of the undersleeve. Should this be made with long, full sleeves or with tight sleeves and a false full chemise sleeve? The second problem is the width of the neckline. The neck on my trial shift is great now that I have modified it, but previously fell of my shoulders. It is also a little baggy around my upper arms, which creates bunches of cloth under my corset - can this be corrected?
    Materials needed:
    -Fine cotton or linen for the shift
    -Black silk or cotton thread for Blackwork
    -Blackwork pattern (incidentally, Brownwyn's Blackwork Library used to have a wonderful range of designs, but they are no longer available :( If anyone know where I can get copies of these or any good blackwork designs, please contact me!
  • Corset
    This has already been made. You can read about it and see pictures here.
  • Bumroll
    No idea what I am doing here - and have been drawn into reading about the debate about the existence/non existence of bumrolls. However, have read Jean Hunnisett's ideas on the issue and think I will attempt one to see for myself if it is necessary and the effect it gives
    Materials needed:
    - fabric
    - stuffing
  • Farthingale
    Hmm, the trials and tribulations of this farthingales! Click here to read more about this little adventure!
  • Petticoats
    No ideas as yet here - probably will be made from cotton in white or cream.
  • Forepart
    If working from the portrait this should be a heavy gold brocade, possibly beaded? I am in two minds about whether to make these intricate forepart and sleeves - or to go for something simpler which will lower the formalness of the gown. Luckily, these are pieces which can easily be changed and so perhaps I will do both! I have bought some fantastic scraps of gold brocade from a remnants bin which will be perfect for these! (you can see them pinned under some of the pics in the dress diary)
  • Gown
    I have made a mock up of Jean Hunnisett's Tudor bodice and am not happy with the result. The bodice in the portrait has a very long, elongated point and I would like to copy this silhouette. The Hunnisett pattern does not give this shape at all, and I have decided to draft my own bodice pattern from the corset.
    Mock ups of Hunnisett's sleeve pattern also leave something to be desired...further investigation necessary.
    The neckline in the portrait is lavishly decorated with gold, jewels and pearls. I am hesitant about recreating this, as I am not sure that I want this to be a highly decorated court gown. I am considering simplifying this to a single line of pearls and maybe some gold embroidery...
    Materials needed:
    - many!
  • Undersleeves
    These are very heavily decorated in the portrait and will be made from the same fabric as the forepart. Seeing as I want to simplfy this gown slightly, I think the undecorated patterned brocade will easily be detailed enough.

Accessories:

  • French hood
    A thousand materials needed here!
    - Buckram
    - Millenary wire
    - Matching gown fabric to cover the hood
    - Black satin/cotton to cover the back of the hood
    - Black velveteen/satin for the veil
    - Gold/pearls to decorate the billiament
  • Jewellery
    A string of pearls to wear with this and a gold broach of some type to pin to the bodice front. Also some sort of pendant to hang from the pearls - as in Elizabeth's portrait. I am considerin
And on to the dress diary!